Yunnan Noodles, Far From Home

Ask about the best-known Yunnan rice noodles across China, and many would nominate 过桥米线 (guòqiáo mǐxiàn), “crossing the bridge noodles.” However, for Yunnan locals, 小锅米线 (xiǎoguō mǐxiàn) or “small pot rice noodles” are no doubt the everyday staple. Xiaoguo mixian are hearty, down-to-earth, simple to prepare and available in almost every noodle shop. 

Although xiaoguo mixian are a go-to breakfast for most people in Kunming, I prefer to eat it later as a comforting late-night meal.

I learned to cook this dish from the noodle shops I ate at. Many Yunnan rice noodle restaurants are semi self-service, with one person in charge of welcoming guests and taking orders. I remember standing in front of the kitchen counter where I passed my “ticket” to the kitchen staff. As soon as the chef received the ticket, they would ask if I wanted thin or thick noodles. I always ordered the softer, thick version, which soaked up the sauces better. They would also ask if I wished to add chili oil—Yes. Finally, I would add a personal request of more pickles.

The chef would nod, then scoop out two large spoonfuls of simmered pork broth from the giant stockpot beside the cooking bench using a long-handled spoon. Next, they would add a thumb-sized piece of lard into the broth. Once the broth came to a boil, a large patty of minced pork would go in.

After adding the meat, mix Pixian doubanjiang with red oil (红油豆瓣, hóngyóu dòubàn) into the broth and cook for about 30 seconds, followed by garlic chives, pickled mustard greens, leafy greens and rice noodles. Pixian’s red oil douban most closely resembles the chili pastes Yunnan cooks use for xiaoguo mixian. Continue boiling for another two minutes. During this time, the small pot rice noodles soak up all the flavors from the broth and meat. 

The seasonings are added right before finishing cooking, together with a generous splash of chili oil. Once the noodles are cooked, the chef lifts the copper pot and pours it over into a large serving bowl placed in front of me. This scene has been repeated in front of me countless times. After moving to Norway, whenever I crave xiaoguo mixian, I still prepare it the same way.

True to its name, each serving of small pot rice noodles is prepared individually. A classic kitchen set-up includes a rectangular kitchen bench with 4-8 powerful gas burners and thin, fast-heating, semicircular copper pots about 18 cm wide and 10 cm deep atop each burner. The whole process takes about 4-5 minutes. The chef cooks the noodles as efficiently as possible to avoid guests from waiting too long during peak times.

Selecting Ingredients for Xiaoguo Mixian

• For the broth, it is best to select bone-in pork leg (腿骨, tuǐgǔ) or bone-in pork shoulder (肩骨, jiāngǔ). Pork spareribs (排骨, páigǔ) produce a more meaty flavor than the leg and shoulder bones. You can choose ribs if you wish for a meatier taste. Some Hui restaurants use beef broth with stewed beef as a topping, but I have not seen it often.
• The meat patty in the cooked noodle dish is always minced pork. Choose a grind or cut with at least 20% fat if you are mincing your own meat, like many families do on a weekend morning. Pork belly makes for extra luxurious ground pork.
• For the leafy greens, fresh bean sprouts and thinly sliced Chinese cabbage are excellent choices. If I had to be picky, I would prefer to use the white part of Chinese cabbage because it’s crunchier than the leafy part. If you have access to fresh pea shoots, get a handful of that as well.
• Xiaoguo mixian are very customizable. Some prefer more pickled mustard, some like it with fewer chives. When my mom prepares it at home, she always adds extra meat topping and pickled mustard. That being said, Chinese chives (garlic chives) and pickled mustard greens are must-haves for this dish. It would feel like something was missing if either of these ingredients were not included in the soup.

The type of pickled mustard greens I can get in Norway are mostly imported from Thailand. They taste pretty similar but lack chili and coloring compared to the Yunnan pickled mustard greens. My trick is to finely chop the mustard greens, then fry them with a bit of oil and thin slices of ginger until the color turns dark. Then season with chili powder and a bit of dark soy sauce to deepen the color. Frying is a common way of cooking pickled mustard greens in Yunnan.  The heating process takes away some of the raw flavors and reduces the acidity. It also adds more fragrance to the mustard green and extends its storage time.

There are many different styles of small pot rice noodles. The “old school” way emphasizes savory, sweet and umami flavors.  In the past decades, under the influence of younger generations’ preference for stronger spices, xiaoguo mixian have shifted towards heavier seasoning, spiciness, umami and aromatic flavors. A hint of sweetness still shines through the complex flavors, although it is no longer as noticeable as before.

Variations of Yunnan Small Pot Rice Noodles Over Time

• Restaurants started offering 卷粉 (juǎn fěn), flat rice noodle, and  碱面 (jiǎn miàn), alkaline noodle, to diversify the choice of noodle.
• In 砂锅米线 (shāguō mǐxiàn) or “clay pot rice noodles,” the noodles are cooked in a clay instead of copper pot, then served directly in the pot. Check out Taylor’s adapted shaguo mixian!
• In 罐罐米线 (guànguàn mǐxiàn) or “clay jar rice noodles,” the noodles are served in a small clay jar, about 8×6 cm. The reduced serving size is ideal as a snack or side.
• Adding extra ingredients is also popular. 臭豆腐小锅米线 (chòudòufu xiǎoguō mǐxiàn) or “fermented tofu small pot rice noodle” uses a specialty fermented firm tofu from Shiping or Jianshui counties in southern Yunnan. A palm-sized piece is added to the broth along with leafy greens, creating a unique, irresistible aroma and flavor to the broth. The super-soft tofu coats the rice noodles, creating a smooth, mouth-melting sensation.
• Other popular toppings: pickled garlic chive flower from Qujing, pickled and dried daikon radish strips from Kunming, 油条 (yóutiáo) or “Chinese fritters/donuts.”

When I prepare xiaoguo mixian, I use a thin enamel stockpot with a handle on the side instead of a copper pot. It transfers heat quickly, making an ideal substitute for copper. Avoid using stainless steel or heavy-bottom pots, as it takes much longer to cook the ingredients. Aluminum pots work well for non-induction stovetops.

To enjoy little pot rice noodles, don’t ever rush into eating it right away even though the soup looks super tempting, as you may burn your tongue!

For more Yunnan rice noodle dishes, check out Michelle’s Liang Mixian (Cold Rice Noodles) and Taylor’s recipe for Shaguo Mixian (Clay Pot Rice Noodles), adapted from Georgia Freedman’s cookbook Cooking South of the Clouds: Recipes and Stories from China’s Yunnan Province.