This Classic Kunming Street Food Is Easy to Make at Home

In Germany, where I live, regional Chinese specialties—especially those from underrepresented regions—are a rarity. So when I spotted a Yunnan restaurant in Barcelona, in the hip Gràcia neighborhood, I gladly took a break from my glorious tapas streak. The place was disguised as a pan-Asian eatery, with a menu filled with crispy duck and pho. However, when I spoke to the owner in Mandarin, she brought out a hand-written Chinese menu with a few Yunnan specialties. I ordered a bowl of Yunnan rice noodles with tofu (dòuhuā mǐxiàn, 豆花米线) along with Dai-style stir-fried beef and fried tofu. While the ingredients available in Spain didn’t quite replicate the flavors of these Yunnan specialties, it scratched the itch.

I have a special affinity for rice noodles, having grown up slurping mifen—another name for rice noodles, particularly those served in Sichuan. Of all the provinces in China’s rice-eating South, Yunnan is particularly famous for its endless varieties of rice-noodle dishes, with the most well-known being guoqiao mixian (crossing the bridge noodles, 过桥米线). Back in the early 2000s, this was a trending dish in Sichuan, and we often had them for family weekend dinners. I even had a chance to try them in their home province in the summer of 2003, when my mom took me on a trip to Yunnan and we  joined a bus tour that went from Kunming to Dali, Lijiang and other popular spots. I was eight years old, and everything on that trip made a lasting impression—especially the various kinds of rice noodles we ate across the province.

While I haven’t been able to return to Yunnan since that trip, I’ve made an effort to seek out Yunnan restaurants whenever I’m home in China; I especially like going to a particular spot in Chengdu for Dali-style noodles topped with shredded chicken. But I hadn’t had a chance to try Kunming’s famous tofu-topped noodles until I stumbled upon them in Barcelona. After that first bowl, I was inspired to try to recreate it at home.

Compared to the elaborate, almost banquet-like setup of guoqiao mixian, douhua mixian is humble and casual. This lukewarm or cold dish comes from Kunming and is considered a shǎngwu xiǎochī (晌午小吃), or quick lunch fix. In one video showcasing a popular stall at the Zhuanxin farmer’s market (篆新农贸市场), the chef assembles a bowl in mere seconds: Thick rice noodles are briefly tossed in hot water then topped with a generous amount of crunchy pickles, smooth tofu and tender garlic chives, plus a drizzle each of aromatic chili oil and rich soy sauce. 

After watching a lot of videos of people making different variations of these rice noodles with tofu, I started experimenting in my kitchen. I compared store-bought rice noodles of various thicknesses, trying various tricks to get them perfectly bouncy. I also tasted both authentic Yunnan sauces and more accessible substitutes, testing different combinations until I was finally satisfied with the flavor. In the final bowl, each bite was rich yet refreshing, capturing the essence of Yunnan’s vibrant flavors.

How to Shop for and Cook Rice Noodles

Traditionally, this dish uses thick, freshly made fermented rice noodles known as suānjiāng mǐxiàn (酸浆米线), which have a slight sour note. However, dried noodles, or gànjiāng mǐxiàn (干浆米线), are also commonly used in Yunnan for their convenience and shelf life. I opt for the latter when making this dish. The best option is the thick and round dried rice noodles from Yunnan like those sold by The Mala Market, or those from Jiangxi or Wenzhou. 

To achieve bouncy, perfectly cooked noodles, I like to soak the cooked noodles in cold water once they’re cooked: First you cook the rice noodles in a pot of boiling water until they’re done, then you rinse them under cool running water a few times. Lastly, you leave them in a bowl of cold water until you’re ready to assemble your dish. This method keeps the noodles springy and prevents them from becoming mushy. When you’re ready to serve, simply drain the noodles—or briefly blanch them in simmering water again, if you prefer them warm. 

The Secret Sauce That Gives Yunnan Rice Noodles With Tofu an Authentic Flavor

Every eatery in Yunnan boasts its own secret formula for mixian sauce—a slightly spicy, savory and sweet condiment that adds depth to the dish. From my research, I’ve learned that local recipes often feature a blend of zhāotōng jiàng (昭通酱), a fermented chili soybean sauce, and tāngchí lǎojiàng (汤池老酱), a wheat-based fermented sauce. When I first made this dish, I used these exact sauces, which my parents purchased online and brought from China to help me capture the dish’s original flavors. However, these  can be hard to find outside of Yunnan (even in other parts of China), so, while I was developing this recipe, I looked for good alternatives. I discovered that a combination of Sichuan’s fermented chili broad bean paste, or Pixian doubanjiang, and tian mian jiang, fermented sweet wheat paste, creates a close enough match when combined with a huangdou jiang, or yellow soybean sauce (like the widely available Shinho brand from Shandong).

Local cooks also use a sweet soy sauce from Tuodong (拓东甜酱油). While this brand is exclusive to Yunnan, other brands of Chinese sweet soy sauce also work. Alternatively, you can make a simple sweet soy sauce at home: Simmer 2 tablespoons of dark brown sugar, 4 tablespoons of light soy sauce and 2 tablespoons of water together for 15–20 minutes, until the mixture becomes syrupy and thick.

This dish also calls for pickled mustard greens, a popular ingredient in central Yunnan. There are various regional versions of this pickle all across China, and each usually has its own unique name. In Yunnan, the most beloved types are dōngcài (冬菜) and suān yāncài (酸腌菜), but other pickled greens like xuěcài (雪菜) or yacai (芽菜)—which can be bought pre-packaged— are good substitutes. (If you want, you could also make your own suan cai using Georgia’s pickle recipe.) 

The soft tofu traditionally used in this dish, called shuǐ dòufu (水豆腐) in Yunnan, is a little firmer than douhua, the tofu pudding you find in Sichuan and other parts of China. I find that smooth, silken tofu makes a great substitute. Soaking it in water helps remove any unpleasant beany flavor from the liquid. (If you’re using freshly made soft tofu, skip this step!)   

Douhua mixian can be either vegetarian (sù mǐxiàn, 素米线) or made with meat (hūn mǐxiàn, 荤米线). For this recipe, I made a meat sauce topping similar to the one used for Yibin noodles but with pork instead of beef (and with a shorter cooking time, so the meat is softer).  If you want to make a vegetarian version of the dish, just leave it off.

For more fun and delicious noodle bowls, check out Taylor’s Sichuan Dandanmian ft. Yacai (Dandan Noodles, 担担面) and Zajiang Noodles (Zajiangmian, 杂酱面), Michelle’s Yunnan Liang Mixian (Cold Rice Noodles, 凉米线) and Georgia’s Southern Yunnan-Style Beef Noodle Soup (Niurou Mixian, 牛肉米线).