The Secrets Behind Sichuan’s Fiery Snack-Sized Noodles

Wander through the residential areas of Chengdu, or any city in Sichuan, and you’ll find  noodle eateries (miànguǎn, 面馆) on nearly every corner, each offering a variety of noodles, dumplings and cold dishes for a quick meal. Each Sichuan city has its local specialties. For example, Mianyang features soupy thin rice noodles (Miányáng mǐfěn, 绵阳米粉), while Guangyuan is known for steamed rice noodles (mǐliángmiàn, 米凉面) in chili oil sauce. In Chengdu, dandan noodles and zajiang noodles are popular options in these eateries. When I was growing up, eating at these hole-in-the-wall places was an essential part of my food life, and all of these noodles were staples of my childhood.

During my college years at Sichuan University in the early 2010s, dry-tossed noodles from Yibin, such as burning noodles, were also trendy. These were my go-to meals when I was rushing to seminars after my extracurricular German classes or hanging out with friends around campus in central Chengdu. Even today, these noodles still play an important role in my life: Whenever I arrive home, after a long haul flight, my parents stop by a nearby noodle place to treat me to a comforting bowl. 

These days, one of my favorites types of noodles is shēngjiāo niúròumiàn (生椒牛肉面), or fresh-chili beef noodles. These fiery Sichuan dry-tossed noodles with crispy ground beef, fresh chili and plenty of cilantro on top and bright chili oil at the bottom of the bowl will leave you sweating.

To counteract the heat, I like to order these noodles alongside something milder and soupier, like mushroom soup noodles or liánggāo (凉糕, cold rice pudding with brown sugar syrup), alternating bites to balance the intensity. (In Sichuan, these types of noodles are served in 1-liang (50-gram) portions, which is just enough for a snack, so many locals order two or three small bowls of different noodles rather than a single large bowl.)

I’ve been dreaming about this style of noodle from afar ever since I moved to the West, a few years ago, so last December, when I was home for a visit, my parents and I drove to  the city of Yibin (in the southwestern part of Sichuan) to rediscover their original flavors.

At an eatery called Luerqian Ranmian (陆二倩燃面), we ordered four small portions of different types of noodles to share. The taste was unparalleled. After hearing our rave reviews, the restaurant owner, who has been in business for over three decades, revealed his secrets to these Yibin-style dry-tossed noodles: high-quality alkaline noodles, chili oil and a vigorous dry-tossing method that involves shaking off as much water as possible after the noodles are cooked.

Choosing and Cooking the Noodles

For dry-tossed noodles, the best choice is alkaline wheat noodles, known as jiǎnshuǐ miàn (碱水面). These noodles maintain a chewy, al dente texture after cooking and are less likely to stick together than regular dried wheat noodles. In Yibin, they use freshly made alkaline noodles called leaf noodles (水叶子面, shuǐyèzi miàn), but I’ve found that dried versions are a great substitute when fresh ones are unavailable. 

It’s important to serve these noodles right after they’re prepared, as they can get sticky and clump up after cooking. Ideally, you should prepare the meat topping and sauce before cooking the noodles. 

Once the noodles are cooked to an al dente texture, drain them and vigorously shake the colander or strainer to remove excess water, then immediately transfer them to a serving bowl with a little sauce in the bottom and add your toppings. If your noodles have started to stick together before you add then to the bowl, you can toss them with some sesame oil before adding. 

Making the Beef Topping (Sàozi) 

Ground or chunky meat toppings for noodles are commonly called sàozi (臊子) in Sichuan. While every family has its own saozi recipe, my version is pretty classic: First I fry the beef and season with doubanjiang for spice and tianmianjiang (sweet wheat paste) for sweetness. After frying the beef, I then braise it in broth to make it tender and moist—it should retain enough liquid to provide most of the sauce for the noodles. (While the restaurant version is braised for a longer time, I shorten the process for home cooking.) Saozi can be repurposed for many dishes, so I always make a big batch—for example, to use in other ground meat noodles, mapo tofu or as a topping over a bowl of silky steamed egg.

Sichuan Dry-Tossed Noodle Sauce and Toppings

Dry-tossed noodles are typically served on a base sauce consisting of soy sauce, chili oil, salt and MSG. I added a splash of sesame oil and Sichuan pepper oil (red or green) for a nutty and floral aroma. 

Topping the noodles with fresh chilies and cilantro adds a burst of freshness to the rich meat topping and springy noodles, creating a balance of textures and flavors. You can adjust the dish’s spiciness by choosing a red chili that suits your tastes. In Sichuan, cooks usually use diced red èrjīngtiáo chili, but you can use other medium-hot chili peppers such as red cayenne or jalapeño (or even sweet bell peppers, if you want to avoid spice).

If you like Sichuan-style spicy noodle dishes, try Taylor’s Heartbreak Jelly Noodles, Zajiangmian or Chongqing Sour and Spicy Sweet Potato Noodles.