MSG: Umami by a Different Name

We first published this defense of MSG in 2014, when scientists and food writers were beginning to try to set the record straight about the wrongly vilified flavor enhancer. I felt the need to join them since I was cooking from a China-published cookbook, Sichuan Cuisine in Both Chinese and English, that often called for monosodium glutamate, or 味精 (wèijīng) as the Chinese call it and “gourmet powder” as they translate it. When a recipe called for it, I usually used it, because I had tasted how a tiny amount dials up the flavor tremendously.

But the world was mostly still convinced that MSG was a Chinese-food villain that would give them headaches and fatigue—despite the fact that they also consumed monosodium glutamate (with no ill effects!) added to processed foods such as chips and soups and hot dogs and deli meats, and occurring naturally in tomatoes and mushrooms and cheese and meat.

Fast forward a few years, and we were importing dozens of Chinese cooking ingredients and heritage products for The Mala Market. The majority did not include MSG, of course, but the occasional sauce or snack did. When sourcing, we always look first for products that have no additives or preservatives. But some complex sauces and spice blends need a smidge of MSG to attain their quintessential flavor—and to allow the use of less salt in the recipe. (And some products require preservatives so they don’t give us food poisoning!) So while we are careful to list all ingredients on our site so you can make your own choices about what to consume, we don’t ban a product simply because it has MSG.

At this point there has been a tremendous amount written exonerating MSG, but we know that some people still have not gotten the memo. So instead of repeating it all, I have put together this helpful reading list (with short excerpts).

It’s estimated that fewer than 1% of people have an actual physical reaction to MSG. And not only is MSG not bad for the vast majority of us, it may even be something you want to add to your diet if you are trying to lower your salt intake. Don’t believe me? Keep reading!

The Facts About Monosodium Glutamate

The New York Times, 2008: Yes, MSG, the Secret Behind the Savor:

The Times was ahead of the curve, writing on the 100th anniversary of Japan’s discovery of glutamate: “Cooks around the world have remained dedicated to MSG, even though they may not know it by that name. As hydrolyzed soy protein or autolyzed yeast, it adds flavor to the canned chicken broth and to the packs of onion soup mix used by American home cooks, and to the cheese Goldfish crackers and the low-fat yogurts in many lunchboxes.

“It is the taste of Marmite in the United Kingdom, of Golden Mountain sauce in Thailand, of Goya Sazón on the Latin islands of the Caribbean, of Salsa Lizano in Costa Rica and of Kewpie mayonnaise in Japan….

“‘Just like salt and sugar, it exists in nature, it tastes good at normal levels, but large amounts at high concentrations taste strange and aren’t that good for you,’ Dr. Chaudhari said.”

U.S. Food & Drug Administration, 2012: Questions and Answers on Monosodium glutamate (MSG):

“Today, instead of extracting and crystallizing MSG from seaweed broth, MSG is produced by the fermentation of starch, sugar beets, sugar cane or molasses. This fermentation process is similar to that used to make yogurt, vinegar and wine….The glutamate in MSG is chemically indistinguishable from glutamate present in food proteins. Our bodies ultimately metabolize both sources of glutamate in the same way. An average adult consumes approximately 13 grams of glutamate each day from the protein in food, while intake of added MSG is estimated at around 0.55 grams per day….

“Over the years, FDA has received reports of symptoms such as headache and nausea after eating foods containing MSG. However, we were never able to confirm that the MSG caused the reported effects.

“These adverse event reports helped trigger FDA to ask the independent scientific group Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology (FASEB) to examine the safety of MSG in the 1990s. FASEB’s report concluded that MSG is safe. The FASEB report identified some short-term, transient, and generally mild symptoms, such as headache, numbness, flushing, tingling, palpitations, and drowsiness that may occur in some sensitive individuals who consume 3 grams or more of MSG without food. However, a typical serving of a food with added MSG contains less than 0.5 grams of MSG. Consuming more than 3 grams of MSG without food at one time is unlikely.“

The Washington Post, 2018: Why Americans still avoid MSG, even though its ‘health effects’ have been debunked

“Instead, historians and researchers have blamed the initial symptoms that Kwok and others attributed to MSG on a variety of other sources: excess sodium or alcohol consumed with restaurant meals, a version of the placebo effect, growing skepticism of corporations, and deep-seated, anti-Asian prejudice….

“In some ways, Meyer and other experts see the story of MSG repeating—and deepening—in the current ‘clean-eating’ trend. Where MSG was once the ingredient to banish, many big food brands are culling all chemical, artificial and genetically modified ingredients at consumers’ behest.

“But most of these ingredients have been used safely for decades. And many improve the nutrition and shelf life of packaged foods. Nadia Berenstein, a PhD student at the University of Pennsylvania researching the history of flavor, recently wrote that removing them is often ‘more about catering to a culture’s fears and biases than the genuine pursuit of better-for-you food.'”

Food & Wine, 2024: 56 Years Ago, a Scientific Journal Made MSG the Bad Guy — These Chefs Want an Apology.

“Think MSG is bad for you? You’re wrong.

‘It’s time to talk about an injustice that occurred 56 years ago.’ These are the opening words of a letter written to The New England Journal of Medicine, urging them to acknowledge the role they played in creating a negative stigma around MSG. The Ajinomoto Group, one of the world’s leading producers of MSG, is at the head of this campaign, called Know MSG. Partnering with chefs, food creators, and dietitians, Ajinomoto is aiming to debunk the myth that MSG is unhealthy—a misconception that originated in 1968 when The New England Journal of Medicine coined the term, ‘Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.’ 

“According to The Food Infodemic Report by the Ajinomoto Group, 20% of people in the United States avoid eating Chinese food because they’re concerned about the side effects of MSG. ‘An entire food culture has been demonized because of that one term,’ says Tia M. Rains, vice president of science, innovation, and corporate affairs for Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America. ‘We’re hoping [The New England Journal of Medicine] will revisit the term and the role that they have played in this outcome.'”

MSG for Better Food and Better Health

Harvard Health Publishing, 2024: Monosodium glutamate (MSG): What it is, and why you might consider avoiding foods that contain it

While the title of this Harvard Medical School article is a tad misleading, there’s good advice here: “Condiments like salad dressing, mayonnaise, ketchup, and barbecue sauce also frequently contain MSG, as do packaged seasoning blends, frozen pizzas, and instant noodles….While MSG itself likely doesn’t deserve its reputation as a toxic ingredient, there are reasons to avoid eating foods with MSG. Foods that contain MSG are often highly processed convenience foods that contain high amounts of sodium, fat, and other refined ingredients that aren’t good for us. Seeing monosodium glutamate on an ingredients list should prompt you to look at the other ingredients included—and to consider trying to make that food at home, or to seek out a healthier alternative instead….

“While it may be best to avoid or reduce packaged foods containing MSG, the flavor booster could actually help you reduce the amount of sodium you consume when cooking at home. Despite having “sodium” in its name, monosodium glutamate contains only 12.28 grams of sodium per 100 grams. That’s about one-third of the sodium found in table salt (39.34 grams/100 grams).

“If you replace 1/2 teaspoon of table salt with the same amount of MSG, you’ll reduce the sodium content in your food by about 37%, without losing much flavor. As a home cook, that means using MSG could help enhance the perception of saltiness while reducing the actual sodium content in your food.“

CNN, 2024: MSG is the most misunderstood ingredient of the century. That’s finally changing

“’We have different receptors on our tongue for different tastes. Our receptor for umami looks almost like a Venus Flytrap under a microscope,’ she adds, mimicking a ‘C’ with her hand. ‘Glutamate is the amino acid that has the snug fit to that receptor.’

”So what’s umami? In recent years it’s been called ‘the fifth taste’—joining the more familiar tastes of sweet, sour, salty and bitter—and is often described as savory.

“When the glutamate goes into the receptor, it causes an umami flavor sensation on our tongue. If the food has one of the two nucleotides—inosinate and guanylate—the glutamate is able to stick to the receptor for a longer period.

“’In layman’s terms, if you want to make an umami bomb, combine the glutamate—which is the core in creating umami—with one of these nucleotides (inosinate and guanylate). It’s like getting multiple hits of umami to your brain,’ Rains explains.”

Cook’s Illustrated, 2023: Use MSG to Boost the Seasoning Power of Your Salt. MSG Turns Plain Salt Into an Umami Powerhouse 

“MSG works best on foods that are already savory, and because a little goes a long way, we don’t recommend simply sprinkling it on its own over food. Instead, incorporate it into applications like vinaigrettes, soups, stews, and gravy, where it will give their savoriness a real boost. 

“Here are some guidelines:

“For vinaigrette: Use ⅛ teaspoon per ¼ cup

“For soups, stews, gravy: Use ⅛ teaspoon per cup

“How to Make an MSG Seasoning Mix: Combining MSG with salt turns it into a flavor-boosting garnish for everything from steak, chicken, and fish to sliced tomatoes, roasted vegetables, French fries, and popcorn. Any food that could use an umami boost.

“Formula: 1 teaspoon finely ground MSG + 2 tablespoons kosher salt

“Pairing MSG with salt is also a good way to get comfortable using this product: By using the mixture to season, instead of plain salt, you automatically include a little MSG whenever you’re seasoning. It’s a great way to learn how MSG can be effective.

“Bonus: By making your salt more satisfying, you can use less of it to season everything, and cut your sodium intake.”

Chinese vs. Japanese MSG

There is no real difference between Japanese and Chinese brands of pure MSG, other than, sometimes, their texture and their fascinating histories.

In 1908, the Japanese chemist Ikeda Kikunae discovered MSG by isolating the glutamic acid in seaweed. He crystalized it and adopted the word umami to describe its taste. Within a few years, MSG had become extremely popular not only in Japan but also in its then-colony Taiwan, under the original brand name, Ajinomoto.

Gastronomica, 2005: A Short History of MSG. Good Science, Bad Science, and Taste Cultures

“Although the cuisines of Taiwan and southern China were closely related, Ajinomoto encountered greater obstacles in China. The company began marketing in Shanghai and Canton in 1918 and in 1922 initiated an advertising blitz akin to that in Taiwan, but the conspicuous billboards helped make Ajinomoto a symbol of Japanese imperialism and thus a favorite target of protest. As a result, sales suffered….

“At the same time, the nationalist response spurred development of native equivalents, which undersold the import. The largest Chinese manufacturer, the Tian Chu (Heavenly Kitchen) company [see photo at top], founded in 1923, touted its product as ‘The national taste essence! An entirely domestic product! Not the same as the import! Better than Ajinomoto and fairly priced…!’

“Tian Chu consciously imitated Ajinomoto packaging and advertising. In the cat-and-mouse game of market competition, when boycotts and attacks on retail shops hurt Ajinomoto again in 1930, the company responded by inventing a Chinese name and imitating the packaging of its Chinese competitors. By this time, the cumulative sales of Chinese-managed imitators had come to exceed Ajinomoto’s sales in China.”