Xi’an Chinese Hamburger (Roujiamo 西安肉夹馍)
Servings: 8 buns
The Mala Market
Ingredients
For the Tongguan Buns
- 2½ cups (400g) all-purpose flour
- 1½ teaspoons instant yeast
- ½ teaspoon baking powder
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon white sugar
- 1 cup (250ml–280ml) warm water
- ¼ cup lard or butter, melted
- Five-spice powder
- Peanut oil or another neutral cooking oil, for frying
For the Pork Filling
- 1½ pounds (750g) pork shoulder (or pork belly if you prefer a fattier meat)
- 10 thin slices of ginger
- 2 tablespoons peanut oil or other neutral cooking oil
- 8 pieces white rock sugar
- 1½ tablespoons Shaoxing wine
- 1½ tablespoons light soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
- 4 bay leaves
- 2 scallions, white parts only, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 2 star anise
- 1 large cinnamon stick (ideally true cassia)
- 2 teaspoons salt
For Assembly
- ½ red onion, finely chopped
- 1 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves
- 1–2 tablespoons reserved broth (from cooking the meat, see below)
- 1 tablespoon chili oil, with sediment (optional)
Instructions
For the Tongguan Buns
- In a large mixing bowl, mix the flour, yeast, baking soda, baking powder, sugar and salt together with a pair of chopsticks. Keep stirring with the chopsticks as you slowly pour in the warm water, bringing it all together into a rough dough. Tip the dough onto a floured surface and knead for 8–10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and the surface feels pillowy. (Alternatively, use a mixer to knead the dough on medium speed for 4–6 minutes.)
- Place the dough back into the mixing bowl, cover it with a damp towel or plastic wrap and leave it to rest for about an hour—or longer if your kitchen is cold. You want the dough to rise to about 1½ to 2 times its size.
- Tip the dough out onto the floured surface again and divide it into four equally sized pieces. Cover three of the pieces with plastic wrap while you work with the first one: Using a rolling pin or a pasta machine, roll the dough into a long, narrow strip about 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. Roll the dough as thin as you can without making too many tears. If necessary, use your hands to stretch the dough a little more in both width and length.
- Brush the long piece of dough liberally with lard or butter and then sprinkle a pinch of the five-spice powder evenly over the surface.
- Starting at one end of the dough, roll it up like a paper scroll. Be sure not to roll it too tightly; keep it loose so that air pockets can form between the layers to avoid dense, chewy buns. Stop when you've rolled about two-thirds of the dough.
- Using a sharp knife, cut the remaining dough lengthwise into thin strips, all still attached to the rest of the roll, creating a "grass skirt" effect with each piece still attached to the roll. Continue rolling the dough so the strips wrap around the roll.
- Cut the rolled dough in half so you have two shorter rolls. Turn them so that their messy ends are pressed into the work surface and the fresh cut is facing up. Push each one down with the palm of your hand, pressing the dough flat while trying to keep the swirl pattern neat and the “eye” in the center. When it’s flat (probably ½–1 inch at this point), use the rolling pin to roll each one thinner, keeping them as round as you can. Once they’re about 4 inches in diameter, place them onto a large baking tray and cover them with plastic wrap. Repeat with all of the other pieces of dough to make 8 buns.
- Let the dough rest until the buns have nearly doubled in size, about 1 hour (longer if your kitchen is cold).
- Preheat your oven to 400°F (375°F if using convection) about 30–40 minutes into the rise.
- When the buns have risen, heat a flat frying pan over medium heat. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of oil into the pan and when it’s hot, add as many of the buns as will fit with ½ an inch of space between them. Fry the buns on each side until golden brown, 1–2 minutes, then transfer them to a baking sheet; repeat as many times as necessary to cook all the buns. (You might need to add more oil to the pan between batches.)
- Bake the buns in the preheated oven for 8–10 minutes or until they are a rich orange-brown.
For the Pork Filling
- Cut the pork into large cubes (about 1½ inches by 1½ inches). Rinse the pork, then place it into a large pot. Fill the pot with cold water and add the 4 slices of the ginger.
- Bring the water to a boil and cook the pork for 15 minutes. As the scum rises to the surface, remove and discard it. When the pork is done, drain it and set it aside.
- Heat the oil in a wok over low heat. Add the rock sugar and cook it until it completely melts and turns dark brown; do not stir the sugar as it can crystallize and become grainy.
- Add the pork cubes to the wok and toss them with the caramelized sugar until the meat is evenly coated and slightly browned.
- Once the pork is colored, add the Shaoxing wine. When it bubbles, add the light and dark soy sauces and stir to combine.
- Add enough water to cover the pork, then add the remaining 6 slices of ginger, bay leaves, scallions, star anise, cinnamon stick and salt.
- Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the wok. Cook for about 90 minutes, until the meat is tender and falling apart. If the liquid reduces too much during this time and the pork pieces are no longer submerged, add another cup of water or so. (This can happen about halfway through the cooking time, especially on Chinese stoves where the flame is bigger.) The meat is ready when you can easily break a piece apart with a pair of chopsticks.
To Assemble the Roujiamo
- Using a slotted spoon, remove the meat from the wok, leaving the broth. Finely chop the meat, then transfer it to a large bowl and mix it with the onion and the cilantro. Add a tablespoon or two of the broth from the wok, to moisten and add a rich flavor; you want to add enough for the meat to be moist but not so much that it pools in the bottom of the bowl.
- When the buns are cooked and cool enough to handle, cut each one in half through the narrow side, only cutting ¾ of the way through so that the top and bottom are still attached at one side. (If you made the buns ahead of time and they have cooled, slip them back in the oven for 2–4 minutes to reheat before assembling.) Stuff each bun with enough meat that it is bulging and almost overflowing—about ¼ cup. Add a drizzle of chili oil, if you like. Eat whilst still crispy and warm.