Trim lamb of any excess fat or silver skin. Cut it into small cubes no more than about 1 inch. Add lamb to a bowl of water and massage the lamb pieces, pouring off the water and repeating 3 times to wash the lamb. The water should run fairly clear and the lamb should turn from red to light pink.
Add wine, salt, baking soda, shallot and ginger, mix well and marinate lamb for 15-30 minutes. Then run a bamboo toothpick through the middle of each cube and out the other side, so that it protrudes on both sides. Lay the lamb pieces out on a paper towel to dry and pat off any excess liquid.
While lamb is marinating, add cumin seed and Sichuan peppercorns to a dry skillet and toast until fragrant. Remove from heat and cool, then add to a mortar and pestle (or spice grinder) and pound to a coarse powder. Add ground chilies, salt, sugar and MSG (if using), mix well and set aside.
Add enough oil to your wok or pot to shallow-fry and mostly submerge the meat, and heat oil to about 375°F. Add lamb and adjust heat to cook at a rapid bubble until the cubes are starting to brown. Add the dried chilies and cook briefly, then remove lamb and chilies with a spider or slotted spoon into a large bowl.
Spoon the chili oil or crisp over the lamb and mix well, then add the cumin spice mix and toss to coat. Gently mix in cilantro and remove to a serving plate.